Diesel Engines Starting

It is customary to include a cold-starting position at the rack. This position provides extra fuel to the nozzles and makes combustion correspondingly more likely.

Lube oil and water immersion heaters are available that can be mounted permanently on the engine. Lube oil heaters are preferred and can be purchased from most engine builders. Good results can be had by heating the oil from an external heater mounted below the sump. Use an approved type to minimize the fire hazard. Alternatively, one can drain the oil upon shutdown and heat it before starting. The same can be done with the coolant, although temperatures in both cases should be kept well below the boiling temperature of water to prevent distortion and possible thermal cracking.

If extensive cold weather operation is intended or if the engine will be stopped and started frequently, it is wise to add one or more additional batteries wired in parallel. Negative-to-negative and positive-to-positive connections do not alter the output voltage, but add the individual battery capacities.

Once chilled beyond the cloud point, diesel fuel enters the gelling stage. Flow through the system is restricted, filter efficiency suffers, and starting becomes problematic. Racor is probably the best known manufacturer of fuel heaters, which are available in a variety of styles. Several combine electric resistance elements with a filter, to heat the fuel at the point of maximum restriction. Another type incorporates a resistance wire in a flexible fuel line.

Makers of indirect injection engines generally fit glow plugs as a starting aid (Fig. 11-1). These engines would be extremely difficult to start without some method of heating the air in the prechamber. A low-resistance filament (0.25–1.5 , cold) draws heavy current to generate 1500°F at the plug tip. Early types used exposed filaments, which sometimes broke off and became trapped between the piston and chamber roof with catastrophic effects on the piston and (when made of aluminum) the head. Later variants contain the filament inside of a ceramic cover, which eliminates the problem. However, ceramic glow plugs are quite vulnerable to damage when removed from the engine and must be handled with extreme care.

In all cases, glow plugs are wired in parallel and controlled by a large power relay. Test filament continuity with an ohmmeter.

Primitive glow-plug systems are energized by a switch, sometimes associated with a timer, and nearly always in conjunction with a telltale light. The more sophisticated systems used in contemporary automobiles automatically initiate glow-plug operation during cranking and, once the engine starts, gradually phase out power.

Two types of circuits are encountered, both built around a solid-state module with an internal clock. The pulsed system opens the glow-plug power circuit for progressively longer intervals as the engine heats and the timer counts down. In the Ford/Navistar version of this circuit, glow-plug resistance varies with tip temperature, so that the plugs themselves function as heat sensors. Note that these low-resistance devices self-destruct within seconds of exposure to steady-state battery voltage. Pulsed glow plugs can be tested with a low-voltage ohmmeter and plug operation can be observed by connecting a test lamp between the power lead and the glow-plug terminal. Normally, if the circuit pulses, it can be considered okay; when in doubt, consult factory literature for the particular engine model.

Most manufacturers take a less ambitious approach, and limit glow-plug voltage by switching a resistor into the feed circuit. During cold starts, a relay closes to direct full battery voltage to the glow plugs; as the engine heats (a condition usually sensed at the cylinder-head water jacket), the first relay opens and a second relay closes to switch in a large power resistor. Power is switched off when the module times out.

Starting fluid can be used in the absence of intake air heaters. In the old days a mechanic poured a spoonful of ether on a burlap rag and placed it over the air intake. This method is not the safest nor the most consistent; too little fluid will not start the engine, and too much can cause severe detonation or an intake header explosion. Aerosol cans are available for injection directly into the air intake. Use as directed in a well-ventilated place.

More sophisticated methods include pumps and metering valves in conjunction with pressurized containers of starting fluid. Figure 11-2 illustrates a typical metering valve. The valve is tripped only once during each starting attempt, to forestall explosion. Caterpillar engines are sometimes fitted with a one-shot starting device consisting of a holder and needle. A capsule of fluid is inserted in the device and the needle pierces it, releasing the fluid.

The starter motor should not be operated for more than a few seconds at a time. Manufacturers have different recommendations on the duration of cranking, but none suggests that the starter button be depressed for more than 30 seconds. Allow a minute or more between bouts for cooling and battery recovery.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *