204-008   General Cleaning Instructions

Definition of Clean

Parts must be free of debris that can contaminate any engine system. This does not necessarily mean they have to appear as new.

Sanding gasket surfaces until the factory machining marks are disturbed adds no value and is often harmful to forming a seal. It is important to maintain surface finish and flatness tolerances to form a quality sealing surface. Gaskets are designed to fill small voids in the specified surface finish.

Sanding gasket surfaces where edge-molded gaskets are used is most often unnecessary. Edge-molded gaskets are those metal carriers with sealing material bonded to the edges of the gasket to seal while the metal portion forms a metal to metal joint for stability. Any of the small amounts of sealing material that can stick to the parts are better removed with a blunt-edged scraper on the spots rather than spending time polishing the whole surface with an air sander or disc.

For those gaskets that do not have the edge molding, nearly all have a material that contains release agents to prevent sticking. Certainly this is not to say that some gaskets are not difficult to remove because the gasket has been in place a long time, has been overheated or the purpose of the release agent has been defeated by the application of some sealant. The object however is just to remove the gasket without damaging the surfaces of the mating parts without contaminating the engine (don’t let the little bits fall where they can not be removed).

Bead blasting piston crowns until the dark stain is removed is unnecessary. All that is required is to remove the carbon build-up above the top ring and in the ring grooves. There is more information on bead blasting and piston cleaning later in this document.

Cummins Inc. does not recommend sanding or grinding the carbon ring at the top of cylinder liners until clean metal is visible. The liner will be ruined and any signs of a problem at the top ring reversal point (like a dust-out) will be destroyed. It is necessary to remove the carbon ring to provide for easier removal of the piston assembly. A medium bristle, high quality, steel wire wheel that is rated above the rpm of the power tool being used will be just as quick and there will be less damage. Yes, one must look carefully for broken wires after the piston is removed but the wires are more visible and can be attracted by a magnet.

Oil on parts that have been removed from the engine will attract dirt in the air. The dirt will adhere to the oil. If possible, leave the old oil on the part until it is ready to be cleaned, inspected and installed, and then clean it off along with any attracted dirt. If the part is cleaned then left exposed it can have to be cleaned again before installation. Make sure parts are lubricated with clean oil before installation. They do not need to be oiled all over but do need oil between moving parts (or a good lube system priming process conducted before cranking the engine).

Bead blasting parts to remove exterior paint is also usually unnecessary. The part will most likely be painted again so all that needs happen is remove any loose paint.

Abrasive Pads and Abrasive Paper

The keyword here is “abrasive”. There is no part of an engine designed to withstand abrasion. That is they are all supposed to lock together or slide across each other. Abrasives and dirt particles will degrade both functions.

WARNING    Abrasive material must be kept out of or removed from oil passages and parts wear points. Abrasive material in oil passages can cause bearing and bushing failures that can progress to major component damage beyond reuse. This is particularly true of main and rod bearings.

Cummins Inc. does not recommend the use of emery cloth or sand paper on any part of an assembled engine or component including but not limited to removing the carbon ridge from cylinder liners or to clean block decks or counterbores.

Great care must be taken when using abrasive products to clean engine parts, particularly on partially assembled engines. Abrasive cleaning products come in many forms and sizes. All of them contain aluminum oxide particles, silicon carbide, or sand or some other similar hard material. These particles are harder than most of the parts in the engine. Since they are harder, if they are pressed against softer material they will either damage the material or become embedded in it. These materials fall off the holding media as the product is used. If the products are used with power equipment the particles are thrown about the engine. If the particles fall between two moving parts, damage to the moving parts is likely.

If particles that are smaller than the clearance between the parts while they are at rest (engine stopped), but larger than the running clearance then damage will occur when the parts move relative to each other (engine started). While the engine is running and there is oil pressure, particles that are smaller than the bearing clearance are likely to pass between the parts without damage and be trapped in the oil filter. However, particles larger than the bearing clearance will remove material from one part and can become embedded in one of the parts. Once embedded in one part it will abrade the other part until contact is no longer being made between the two parts. If the damage sufficiently degrades the oil film, the two parts will come into contact resulting in early wear-out or failure from lack of effective lubrication.

Abrasive particles can fly about during cleaning it is very important to block these particles from entering the engine as much as possible. This is particularly true of lubricating oil ports and oil drilling holes, especially those located downstream of the lubricating oil filters. Plug the holes instead of trying to blow the abrasive particles and debris with compressed air because the debris is often simply blown further into the oil drilling.

All old gasket material must be removed from the parts gasket surfaces. However, it is not necessary to clean and polish the gasket surface until the machining marks are erased. Excessive sanding or buffing can damage the gasket surface. Many newer gaskets are of the edge molded type (a steel carrier with a sealing member bonded to the steel). What little sealing material that can adhere is best removed with a blunt-edged scraper or putty knife. Cleaning gasket surfaces where an edge-molded gasket is used with abrasive pads or paper is usually a waste of time.

WARNING    Excessive sanding or grinding the carbon ring from the top of the cylinder liners can damage the liner beyond reuse. The surface finish will be damaged and abrasive particles can be forced into the liner material which can cause early cylinder wear-out or piston ring failures.

Tape off or plug all openings to any component interior before using abrasive pads or wire brushes. If really necessary because of time to use a power tool with abrasive pads, tape the oil drillings closed or use plug and clean as much of the surface as possible with the tool but clean around the oil hole/opening by hand so as to prevent contamination of the drilling. Then remove the tape or plug and clean the remaining area carefully and without the tool. DO NOT use compressed air to blow the debris out of oil drilling on an assembled engine! More likely than not, the debris can be blown further into the drilling. Using compressed air is fine if both ends of the drilling are open but that is rarely the case when dealing with an assembled engine.

Gasket Surfaces

The object of cleaning gasket surfaces is to remove any gasket material, not refinish the gasket surface of the part.

Cummins Inc. does not recommend any specific brand of liquid gasket remover. If a liquid gasket remover is used, check the directions to make sure the material being cleaned will not be harmed.

Air powered gasket scrapers can save time but care must be taken to not damage the surface. The angled part of the scraper must be against the gasket surface to prevent the blade from digging into the surface. Using air powered gasket scrapers on parts made of soft materials takes skill and care to prevent damage.

Do not scrape or brush across the gasket surface if at all possible.

Solvent and Acid Cleaning

Several solvent and acid-type cleaners can be used to clean the disassembled engine parts (other than pistons. See Below). Experience has shown that the best results can be obtained using a cleaner that can be heated to 90° to 95° Celsius (180° to 200° Fahrenheit). Kerosene emulsion based cleaners have different temperature specifications, see below. A cleaning tank that provides a constant mixing and filtering of the cleaning solution will give the best results. Cummins Inc. does not recommend any specific cleaners. Always follow the cleaner manufacturer’s instructions. Remove all the gasket material, o-rings, and the deposits of sludge, carbon, etc., with a wire brush or scraper before putting the parts in a cleaning tank. Be careful not to damage any gasket surfaces. When possible, steam clean the parts before putting them in the cleaning tank.

WARNING    When using solvents, acids, or alkaline materials for cleaning, follow the manufacturers recommendations for use. Wear goggles and protective clothing to reduce the possibility of personal injury.

Experience has shown that kerosene emulsion based cleaners perform the best to clean pistons. These cleaners should not be heated to temperature in excess of 77°C (170°F). The solution begins to break down at temperatures in excess of 82°C (180°F) and will be less effective.

Do not use solutions composed mainly of chlorinated hydrocarbons with cresols, phenols and/or cresylic components. They often do not do a good job of removing deposits from the ring groove and are costly to dispose of properly.

Solutions with a pH above approximately 9.5 will cause aluminum to turn black; therefore do not use high alkaline solutions.

Chemicals with a pH above 7.0 are considered alkaline and those below 7.0 are acidic. As you move further away from the neutral 7.0, the chemicals become highly alkaline or highly acidic.

Remove all the gasket material, o-rings, and the deposits of sludge, carbon, etc., with a wire brush or scraper before putting the parts in a cleaning tank. Be careful to not damage any gasket surfaces. When possible use hot high pressure water or steam clean the parts before putting them in the cleaning tank. Removing the heaviest dirt before placing in the tank will allow the cleaner to work more effectively and the cleaning agent will last longer.

Rinse all the parts in hot water after cleaning. Dry completely with compressed air. Blow the rinse water from all the capscrew holes and the oil drillings.

If the parts are not to be used immediately after cleaning, dip them in a suitable rust proofing compound. The rust proofing compound must be removed from the parts before assembly or installation on the engine.

Steam Cleaning

Steam cleaning can be used to remove all types of dirt that can contaminate the cleaning tank. It is a good method for cleaning the oil drillings and coolant passages

WARNING    When using a steam cleaner, wear safety glasses or a face shield, as well as protective clothing. Hot steam can cause serious personal injury.

Do not steam clean the following components:

• Electrical Components
• Wiring Harnesses
• Injectors
• Fuel Pump
• Belts and Hoses
• Bearings (ball or taper roller)
• Electronic Control Module (ECM)
• ECM Connectors
• Dosing Control Unit
• NOx Sensor.

Plastic Bead Cleaning

Cummins Inc. does not recommend the use of glass bead blast or walnut shell media on any engine part. Cummins Inc. recommends using only plastic bead media, Part Number 3822735 or equivalent on any engine part. Never use sand as a blast media to clean engine parts. Glass and walnut shell media when not used to the media manufacturer’s recommendations can cause excess dust and can embed in engine parts that can result in premature failure of components through abrasive wear.

Plastic bead cleaning can be used on many engine components to remove carbon deposits. The cleaning process is controlled by the use of plastic beads, the operating pressure and cleaning time.

CAUTION    Do not use bead blasting cleaning methods on aluminum pistons skirts or the pin bores in any piston, piston skirt or piston crown. Small particles of the media will embed in the aluminum or other soft metal and result in premature wear of the cylinder liner, piston rings, pins and pin bores. Valves, turbocharger shafts, etc., can also be damaged. Follow the cleaning directions listed in the procedures.

CAUTION    Do not contaminate wash tanks and tank type solvent cleaners with the foreign material and plastic beads. Remove the foreign material and plastic beads with compressed air, hot high pressure water or steam before placing them in tanks or cleaners. The foreign material and plastic beads can contaminate the tank and any other engine parts cleaned in the tank. Contaminated parts may cause failures from abrasive wear.

Plastic bead blasting media, Part Number 3822735, can be used to clean all piston ring grooves. Do not sure any bead blasting media on piston pin bores or aluminum skirts.

Follow the equipment manufacturer’s cleaning instructions. Make sure to adjust the air pressure in the blasting machine to the bead manufacturer’s recommendations. Turning up the pressure can move material on the part and cause the plastic bead media to wear out more quickly. The following guidelines can be used to adapt to manufacturer’s instructions:

1. Bead size: U.S. size Number 16 — 20 for piston cleaning with plastic bead media, Part Number 3822735
2. Operating Pressure — 270 kPa (40 psi) for piston cleaning. Pressure should not cause beads to break.
3. Steam clean or wash the parts with solvent to remove all of the foreign material and plastic beads after cleaning. Rinse with hot water. Dry with compressed air.

CAUTION    The bead blasting operation must not disturb the metal surface. If the metal surface is disturbed the engine can be damaged due to increased parts clearance or inadequate surface finish on parts that move against other parts.

When cleaning pistons, it is not necessary to remove all the dark stain from the piston. All that is necessary is to remove the carbon on the rim and in the ring grooves. This is best done by directing the blast across the part as opposed to straight at the part. If the machining marks are disturbed by the blasting process, then the pressure is too high or the blast is being held on one spot too long. The blast operation must not disturb the metal surface.

Walnut shell bead blast material is sometimes used to clean ferrous metals (iron and steel). Walnut shell blasting produces a great amount of dust particularly when the pressure if the air pressure on the blasting machine is increased above media manufacturer’s recommendation. Cummins Inc. recommends not using walnut shell media to clean engine parts due to the risk media embedment and subsequent contamination of the engine.

Cummins Inc. now recommends glass bead media NOT used to clean any engine parts. Glass media is too easily embedded into the material particularly in soft materials and when air pressures greater than media manufacturer’s recommend are used. The glass is an abrasive so when it is in a moving part, that part is abrading all the parts in contact with it. When higher pressures are used the media is broken and forms a dust of a very small size that floats easily in the air. This dust is very hard to control in the shop, particularly if only compressed air (and not hot water) is used to blow the media after it is removed from the blasting cabinet (blowing the part off inside the cabinet may remove large accumulations but never removes all the media).

Bead blasting is best used on stubborn dirt/carbon build-up that has not been removed by first steam/higher pressure washing then washing in a heated wash tank. This is particularly true of pistons. Steam and soak the pistons first then use the plastic bead method to safely remove the carbon remaining in the grooves (instead of running the risk of damaging the surface finish of the groove with a wire wheel or end of a broken piston ring. Make sure the parts are dry and oil free before bead blasting to prevent clogging the return on the blasting machine.

Always direct the bead blaster nozzle “across” rather than directly at the part. This allows the bead to get under the unwanted material. Keep the nozzle moving rather than hold on one place. Keeping the nozzle directed at one-place too long causes the metal to heat up and be moved around. Remember that the spray is not just hitting the dirt or carbon. If the machining marks on the piston groove or rim have been disturbed then there has not been enough movement of the nozzle and/or the air pressure is too high.

Never bead blast valve stems. Tape or use a sleeve to protect the stems during bead blasting. Direct the nozzle across the seat surface and radius rather than straight at them. The object is to remove any carbon build up and continuing to blast to remove the stain is a waste of time.

Fuel System

When servicing any fuel system components, which can be exposed to potential contaminants, prior to disassembly, clean the fittings, mounting hardware, and the area around the component to be removed. If the surrounding areas are not cleaned, dirt or contaminants can be introduced into the fuel system.

The internal drillings of some injectors are extremely small and susceptible to plugging from contamination. Some fuel injection systems can operate at very high pressures. High pressure fuel can convert simple particles of dirt and rust into a highly abrasive contaminant that can damage the high pressure pumping components and fuel injectors.

Electrical contact cleaner can be used if steam cleaning tools are not available. Use electrical contact cleaner rather than compressed air, to wash dirt and debris away from fuel system fittings. Diesel fuel on exposed fuel system parts attracts airborne contaminants.

Choose lint free towels for fuel system work.

Cap and plug fuel lines, fittings, and ports whenever the fuel system is opened. Rust, dirt, and paint can enter the fuel system whenever a fuel line or other component is loosened or removed from the engine. In many instances, a good practice is to loosen a line or fitting to break the rust and paint loose, and then clean off the loosened material.

When removing fuel lines or fittings from a new or newly-painted engine, make sure to remove loose paint flakes/chips that can be created when a wrench contacts painted line nuts or fittings, or when quick disconnect fittings are removed.

Fuel filters are rated in microns. The word micron is the abbreviation for a micrometer, or one millionth of a meter. The micron rating is the size of the smallest particles that will be captured by the filter media. As a reference, a human hair is 0.003 mm [3/1000 in] in diameter. One micron measures 0.00004 mm [4/100,000 in]. The contaminants being filtered out are smaller than can be seen with the human eye, a magnifying glass, or a low powered microscope.

The tools used for fuel system troubleshooting and repair are to be cleaned regularly to avoid contamination. Like fuel system parts, tools that are coated with oil or fuel attract airborne contaminants. Remember the following points regarding your fuel system tools:

• Fuel system tools are to be kept as clean as possible.
• Clean and dry the tools before returning them to the tool box.
• If possible, store fuel system tools in sealed containers.
• Make sure fuel system tools are clean before use.