Batteries can emit explosive gases. To reduce the possibility of personal injury, always ventilate the compartment before servicing the batteries. Wear goggles and protective clothing to reduce the possibility of serious personal injury.
WARNING
To reduce the possibility of personal injury, avoid direct contact of hot oil with your skin.
WARNING
Some state and federal agencies have determined that used engine oil can be carcinogenic and cause reproductive toxicity. Avoid inhalation of vapors, ingestion, and prolonged contact with used engine oil. If not reused, dispose of in accordance with local environmental regulations.
WARNING
Coolant is toxic. Keep away from children and pets. If not reused, dispose of in accordance with local environmental regulations.
WARNING
Do not remove the pressure cap from a hot engine. Wait until the coolant temperature is below 50°C [120°F] before removing the pressure cap. Heated coolant spray or steam can cause personal injury.
Disconnect the batteries. Refer to the OEM service manual.
Wear appropriate eye and face protection when using wire brushes to remove carbon from the cylinder block. Flying debris and dirt can cause personal injury. Also, make sure the wire brush is rated for the rpm being used if the brush is motor driven.
CAUTION
Do not use abrasive paper to remove the carbon ring. Small particles of abrasive material will cause severe engine damage.
Plug the overhead oil rifle push tube cavities and coolant passages in the cylinder block, and use a rotary wire brush to remove the carbon ring from the top of the cylinder liner. Use a scraper that has an aluminum blade, if a rotary wire brush is not available.
Use lint-free paper to remove all the broken wire bristles and loose carbon from the cylinders.
Install two connecting rod guide pins, Part Number 3375601.
Use a mallet to push the rod away from the crankshaft.
NOTE: Push the connecting rod away from the crankshaft, cover the crankshaft rod journal, and push the connecting rod until the piston rings are outside of the top of the cylinder liner.
NOTE: The piston crown, skirt, and the connecting rod assemblies must be installed in the same cylinder number they were removed from to make sure proper fit of worn mating surfaces, if parts are used again. Also, the piston skirt and crown must be reinstalled together.
Use a tag to mark the cylinder number that each piston and connecting rod assembly was removed from. Make sure to mark both the skirt and crown on the piston.
NOTE: The piston crown must have the cylinder numbers stamped on the piston top toward the camshaft side of the engine. The skirt must also be stamped so it can be matched with the piston crown.
NOTE: Make sure the piston and connecting rod assembly are correctly marked.
If the piston pin can not be removed at room temperature, it is acceptable to put the piston in 66°C [151°F] water for 15 to 30 minutes, then manually remove the piston pin with a blunt tool.
Remove the piston from the water and lubricate the piston pin bore with clean 15W-40 lubricating oil.
Align the pin bore of the connecting rod with the pin bore of the piston and install the piston pin. Do not use a hammer to install the piston pin. The piston will be damaged.
NOTE: The cylinder number of the piston top (1) must be toward the bearing tang (2) side of the connecting rod.
The pin must easily assemble without force. If not, inspect the pin, connecting rod bushing, and piston for damage, dirt, and poor lubrication.
The ring gap of each ring must not be aligned with the piston pin or with any other ring.
A cross-sectioned view of an oil control ring is illustrated. The two-piece oil control ring must be installed with the expander rig gap 180 degrees from the gap of the oil ring.
Install the upper bearing shell in the connecting rod. If used bearing shells are to be installed, each bearing shell must be installed in its original location.
NOTE: The tang (1) of the bearing shell must be in the slot (2) of the rod.
Lubricate the piston and the ring assembly by hand with clean 15W-40 lubricating oil. Dipping is okay, but draining is very difficult because the piston does not have drain holes. If dipping, only dip up to the pin bore, then hand lubricate it and the remaining skirt.
Do not use a hammer or its equivalent to install the piston into the cylinder liner. The piston rings can be damaged.
Install the connecting rod into the cylinder liner and push the piston down. If the piston does not move freely, remove the piston.
Inspect for broken or damaged rings.
When installing the connecting rod, pay close attention to make sure the rod is aligned with the crankshaft rod journal. If the rod is misaligned, it can bind or scrape the crankshaft connecting rod journal side walls.
The tang (2) of the bearing must be in the slot (1) of the connecting rod cap.
Lubricate the bearing shell with Lubriplate® 105, or equivalent. Lubricate the connecting rod capscrew threads and the washer face with 15W-40 lubricating oil.
The connecting rod cap alpha characters must match the alpha characters on the connecting rod and must be installed with the characters aligned to prevent damage to the connecting rods and crankshaft. The locking tang of the connecting rod cap must be toward the camshaft side of the cylinder block.
The connecting rod has changed on the 1994 Certification Level engine to accommodate the increased loading of the articulated pistons. The torquing procedure for the connecting rod capscrews has also changed. The new torque specification is 129 N•m [95 ft-lb] plus 60 degrees ± 5 degrees.
To facilitate this new torquing procedure, the torque angle socket gauge, Part Number 3824520, was developed.
Batteries can emit explosive gases. To reduce the possibility of personal injury, always ventilate the compartment before servicing the batteries. Wear goggles and protective clothing to reduce the possibility of serious personal injury.
CAUTION
The lubricating oil system must be primed before operating the engine after any internal engine repairs to avoid internal component damage.
Hello, I'm Jack, a diesel engine fan and a blogger. I write about how to fix and improve diesel engines, from cars to trucks to generators. I also review the newest models and innovations in the diesel market. If you are interested in learning more about diesel engines, check out my blog and leave your feedback.
View all posts by Jack